After lifting any vehicle, the length of the brake lines needs somehow to be addressed. One possibility is to purchase some braided stainless steel brake hoses that are available for almost any kind of vehicle on the marked. However, my negative experience with stainless steel lines, made my alternative option, --YJ brake hoses-- a no-brainer.

The following shows how to install the OEM-style YJ (Jeep Wrangler) brake hoses. Since this modification involves critical brake line work, this procedure should only be attempted with the proper tools and the proper experience. Generally, this is a fairly easy procedure and does not require any further modification of the parts involved or drilling into the vehicle body. This article also puts ABS systems into consideration. If your vehicle does not have ABS, simply ignore the ABS warnings.

ABS equipped XJs:
Before removing any of the brake lines, make sure to keep the brake pedal depressed all the time! The depressed brake pedal will close off the ABS pumps and will prevent air from entering these fragile pumps. As long as there is no air in the ABS system, a standard bleeding procedure can be performed after the brake lines are installed. If air entered the ABS pumps and the system is not properly bled (at a dealership or qualified ABS brake shop), the ABS system will fail within a short amount of time causing several hundred dollars worth of damage!
ABS Warning: When opening the brake line with the depressed brake pedal, the system is under quite a bit of pressure! Be careful, and have a heavy rag at hand to place over the connector you are about to open.

ALL XJs:
Brake fluid is corrosive and very damaging to any kind of paint (will bubble off, leaving the bare metal exposed to the environment).

Detail: Rear brake line.

Raybestos part number: BH38845
('95 YJ with ABS, but I doubt they gave me the right part. The rear brake hose I once ordered for a non-ABS YJ had the exact same part number!)

Detail: Front driver's side line:

Raybestos part number: BH380347
('95 YJ with ABS)

The difference between the ABS and non-ABS lines is that the ABS lines have the little plastic clips for the electrical feed to the brakes.

Detail: Front passenger's side line:

Raybestos part number: BH380346
('95 YJ with ABS)

ABS equipped XJs:
Disconnect the battery (remember the depressed brake peal? Brake lights will stay on, even with the ignition off!) 

Place the vehicle safely on reliable floor stands on firm ground. Take the wheel(s) off.

Identifying the parts involved (driver's side front shown):
Red: The original brake hose.
Yellow: The flaring nut (top) and the caliper bolt (bottom, hidden)
Blue: The Torx bolt that holds brake line and ABS line braked to the vehicle.
Green: ABS line (XJs with ABS only).
[Large image ]

ABS equipped XJs only:
Before removing any brake lines, the pedal must be pushed all the way down to the floor. This is necessary to ensure that no air enters the ABS system! A 10" piece of wood works great! (Disonnect the battery, the brake lights will drain it!)

Open the flare nut (ABS warning: brake fluid will squirt out, because of the pushed-down brake pedal!), the caliper bolt, and the Torx bolt. Be careful when removing the caliper bolt, there should be a copper O-ring on either side of the brake line head. One O-ring has the tendendcy to stick to the vehicle, the other needs to be pried off with screw driver from the brake line. It would be best to obtain new copper seals, of course. Good luck finding them, --dealer told me once to just re-use them (that's  what they do). Hmm... --but it works, btw.

After the old line is removed, compare it with your new YJ line. See the difference in length?

Install the new line. Make sure the flare nut is tightened just right. Too little and it will leak (esp. under hard braking), too much and the wrench will slip... tighten the bottom bolt as well. Don't forget the copper O-rings.

A little note on the side here:
The brake line brackets (where the wrench sits in this picture) can be moved downwards. The brake lines can be straightened by hand without the risk of damaging it. This will provide an extra inch or more of brake hose length. A great mod that can be performed without removing the OEM lines on Jeeps with only a little lift. An extra hole is required to be drilled on the bottom of the frame rail. In combination with the YJ lines, even tall lifts can be accomodated this way.

This image shows the two rear brake hoses next to each other. I carefully cut the ABS line clips off of the original line and clipped them onto the new rear brake line (ABS only).

After all new lines are installed, bleed the brake system. This prodecure is not explained here. However, one little trick that worked great for the bleeding: Get one of those bleeder cups ("kit") and super-glue all the fittings, hoses, etc. together and use a hose clamp to clamp the rubber fitting to the bleeder screw. This guarantees that no air is leaking into the bleeder cup set-up while bleeding the brakes. Works great!