Front D44 Axle Conversion

by Jeff Ayers
Posted: November 11, 2000
Last Revision: August 3, 2001

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This project has been completed. The article below is in its original format where occasional updates were provided during the procedure. Follow the progress over time!

August 11, 2000:

Hey all,

Just thought I would share my recent junk yard search results. I am looking into building my own High Pinion D44 front end for my '92 Cherokee.  My original plan was to use a mid 70's Ford front housing and shorten it to accept mid 80's Grand Wagoneer axle shafts with Chevy knuckles (set up for high clearance steering).  This should make the wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface the same as the Grand Wagoneer axle yet have a high pinion center section.  I would either use Grand Wagoneer parts from the Knuckle out (6 on 5.5 bolt pattern) or Chevy parts from the knuckle out (also 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern and I think pretty much the same parts as the Grand Wagoneer.) If I wanted a 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern I would use Ford hubs and misc. parts to complete the housing.  I am pretty sure using the Ford knuckle out pieces would result in a slightly wider width.  So, I did quite a bit of junk yard searching and measureing.  These measurements were done with a tape measure and may not be 100% accurate. Here are my results:

Grand Wagoneer front axle
wheel mount to wheel mount width - 60 3/4"
drivers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 21 3/8"
passengers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 39 1/2"

Stock '92 Cherokee front axle (two composite rotors)
width - 60 1/2
drivers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 21 3/4"
passengers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 38 13/16"

Junk yard Cherokee front axle (non composite rotors)
width - 60 1/2"
drivers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 21 5/8"
passengers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 38 7/8"

So, the Grand Wagoneer drivers side is 1/4" to 3/8" shorter than the stock axle, the passengers side is 11/16" to 3/4" longer than the stock axle, and the total Grand Wagoneer axle width is 1/4" wider than the stock axle.

Based on this information, a Grand Wagoneer front D44 axle is very close in dimensions to the stock Cherokee RC D30 dimensions.  It is slightly wider and the pinion is offset a slight bit further to the drivers side which will actually help clearance between the diff and the exhaust.

I also thought I would swap in a Grand Wagoneer D44 rear to match the new front as far as width and bolt pattern.  Here are my measurements of the rear axles:

Grand Wagoneer rear D44 - no drums
width - 58 1/2"
drivers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 29 1/4"
passengers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 29 1/4"

Stock '87 Cherokee rear D44 with Moser custom shafts
width - 60 1/4"
drivers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 30 3/4"
passengers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 29 3/8"

Stock junk yard D35 rear axle
width - 60 1/4"
drivers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 30 7/8"
passengers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 29 3/8"

So, the Grand Wagoneer rear D44 is 1 3/4" narrower than a stock axle with the pinion being offset 3/4" further towards the drivers side than a stock axle.  The Grand Wagoneer rear axle is also about 2" narrower than the Grand Wagoneer front axle when figuring on 1/8" thick brake drums. The spring pads are already set up for spring over and are the same 43 1/2" apart as the stock xj axle. 

I don't think the pinion offset would cause much of a problem and the different widths between front and rear are apparently not uncommon on vehicles.  However, I think the front of my Cherokee's body is already narrower than the rear and the tires already look like they stick out further in the front than the rear.  So, I really don't want the rear end to be 2" narrower than the front.

I could build the front as outlined and end up being perhaps 1/4" wider than stock at the wheel mounting surfaces.  Then, I could use my current stock D44 rear end (real close to the width of the custom front end when you add in the 3/8" or so of the rear disks) and change wheel bolt pattern on the axleshafts by dual drilling the flanges (if there is enough flange diameter) or selling these axle shafts and having Moser make another set drilled for 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern.  But, in order to maintain the wheel placement that I want, I would need to use 15 x 8 4.5" backspaced wheels with the stock axles.  That same backspacing would then also need to be used with the custom front axle and stock rear axle (with bolt pattern change.)  I would like to be able to use stock Grand Wagoneer rims or stock Chevy rims for their cheapness and availability, but I think they are more like 3.5" backspacing which would make the track width too wide. 

Another possibility I am pursueing is to use the Grand Wagoneer D44 in the rear of my XJ with 3.5" backspaced rims.  This would place the tires just about the same as the previous setup using 4.5" backspaced rims. However, what to do to the front to get it 2" narrower so I can use 3.5" backspaced rims (which will also keep the lockouts covered better)?  If there are enough splines and enough seal area on the front GW axleshafts, I could build the housing in such a manner as to place the shafts 1" further in the diff.  I may have to cut off an inch of the shaft, but I believe that would work.  Custom shafts or shafts 1" shorter from somthing else would also work.  Lots of thoughts without spending anything so far!! Jeff

 

November 30, 2000:

Update: I have purchased a '75 Ford F150 high pinion front axle, stripped all components, cut the housing ends off, and removed the remaining piece of housing tube from the ends. I also came into possession of a '89 Grand Wagoneer that was burned. The undercarriage and axles were in excellent condition though. In addition, I have done a fair amount of junk yard parts picking and have brought home two mid 70's Chevy steering knuckles, a mid '70's Cherokee short side axle shaft, and other misc. parts. I cut the Ford axle housing down to fit the Grand Wagoneer long side axle shaft and the old Cherokee short side axle shaft. After all the research, my plan is to use the Ford housing, cut it to fit the '89 Grand long axle shaft and '70-something short axle shaft, use Chevy steering knuckles, and '89 Grand Wagoneer knuckle out parts with a set of Mile Marker lockout hubs. This combination with stock Chevy Ralley rims will produce a track width of around 60.5". The pinion centerline should end up 1.25" further to the drivers side as compared to stock, but it hopefully will fit and clear everything. The next phase of this project is to make the control arm mounts and install them on the new axle. In this regard, I have begun building a jig based on a stock axle to help locate the mounts. Like my current modified D30 housing, I am going to raise the control arm mounting points 2" over stock and the jig will allow this reposition. Until next time, Jeff

Long side axle
shafts ('75 Ford F150 top and '89 Grand Wagoneer bottom), housing end,
and cut piece

Axle yoke modified with band saw to make room for full circlips.

From top:
'89 Grand long shaft,
'75 Ford long shaft,
'75 Ford short shaft,
'7? Cherokee short shaft,
'89 Grand short shaft.

 


Ford and Grand Wagoneer long axle shafts with housing end and cut piece.

Long side cut to length with '89 Grand axle in place.

Short side cut to length with '7? short axle in place.

Long side housing end getting 1" piece of tube cut into many pieces for removal.

 

February, 2001:

 

Here is my high pinion D44 with all the control arm mounts tacked in position and the ends in the approx. correct spot. The axle shafts are installed as are the spindles and rotor/hub just to test fit it all. The stock Grand Wagoneer tie rod is about 1" too long.

Off-angle photo to fit the whole thing in! :) Mounts tacked in position and everything else loosley installed to check fit including the diff/pinion/axle shafts/spindles/hubs/rotors.

Another off-angle pic from the other end.

 

March, 2001:

Passenger side showing control arm mounts, jig, and housing angle. It is set for 11 degrees pinion angle.
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Axle with mounts tacked in position, all components loosely installed, mock steering arms, Grand Wagoneer tie rod, and passenger's side coil mounts in approximate position.
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Axle mocked up with wooden steering arms, Grand Wagoneer tie rod, and coil/mount clamped in approximate position.
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Housing in jig. Part of driver’s side upper control arm mount is sitting on jig.
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Driver’s side lower control arm mount made from 3x5x3/16” rectangular tubing. The mount fits partially onto the pumpkin. Notice how close the end of the housing is to the control arm bushing. It is designed to fit a control arm end that uses a stock bushing. The housing needed to be moved forward ¾” to achieve this.
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Building and positioning the control arm mounts. Upper mounts will be made from 1” pieces of axle tube opened Up a bit to fit stock bushings. These rings will then be welded To 1x3x1/8” (I couldn’t find it in 3/16) rectangular tubing. The passenger’s side will have the tubing welded to the axle tube and be reinforced with gussets. The driver’s side will be welded to an arch going over the pumpkin. Lower mounts are cut from 3x5x3/16” rectangular tubing.
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Passenger’s side control arm mounts being built,positioned, and tack-welded in position.
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Axle in jig getting control arm mounts designed, built, and tack welded in place. Notice the tab welded to the axle against the pumpkin. This will be used to help mount the over-the-pumpkin arch, the coil mount, and part of the lower control arm mount .
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Close-up of the tab welded to the axle tube against the pumpkin. The over-the-pumpkin arch, coil mount, and lower control arm mount will be welded to this.

Passenger’s side at full steering lock with mock high clearance arms, coil mount in approximate location; coil sitting in mount and Grand Wagoneer tie rod.
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Axle assembly with mock steering arms at full lock showing clearance between the tie rod and coil with everything in approximate position.
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April 2001:

Trial-fitting the axle in place. This is about 3" below full compression, full left turn.
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Test-fitting axle, about 3" below full stuff, full left turn.
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Test-fitting the axle in the XJ. About 3" below full compression. Notice track bar/mount interference with front of pumpkin and over-the-pumpkin arch. Axle was pushed 3/4" forward compared to stock. Also shown is mocked-up high steer arm and tie rod going arm to arm over the arms 6" out from the ball joint center line at full left turn.
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Standard-rotation DANA 44 4:88 R&P gears. [Large image]


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Special "Parts Mike" arms made long enough to fit two tie rod ends, yet not drilled/tapered for them. These arms are surrounded by mounting studs/nuts/split tapered washers.
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"Parts Mike" arms getting the poor man's milling procedure to angle the ends. I did this by cutting a sliver off with a portable band saw and then using a grinder to smooth the cut.
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May 2001:

Axle with all welds done, coil mounts loosley in place.
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Passenger side showing housing end weld, partially finished coil mount, and upper control arm mount.
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Axle --driver's side, showing housing end weld, partially finished coil mount, over-the-pumpkin arch, and upper control arm mount.
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Driver's side from above. Notice coil mount/shock mount/lower control arm mount/housing end weld.
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Passenger's side end from above. Notice coil mount/shock mount/upper and lower control arm mounts/space for track bar mount.
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Passenger's side.
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Passenger's side knuckle with modified "Parts Mike" steering arm, mid-'80s Chevy drag link end going in from the top, and early chevy 4WD hooked tie rod end going in from the bottom. Also shown is the driver's side steering arm and tie rod end.
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Another view of the passenger's side knuckle, steering arms, and tie rod ends.
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Close-up of driver's side steering arm. I used a portable band saw and angle grinder to "mill" the tie rod attachment area at an angle. This allows the tie rod ends to be closer to 90 degrees fromt the rod with the arm mounted on the knuckle.
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July 2001:

Picture showing how close the tie rod and drag link get during full compression. This is during the testing phase hence the make shift left tie rod end. I am using a TJ pitman arm, mid 80's Chev truck tie rod ends, and a shortened Chev tie rod adjusting tube for the drag link. The tie rod uses earlier Chev tie rod ends that are hooked and have a 3/4-16 right and left hand thread. The tie rod is a piece of DOM threaded to 3/4-16.
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Front shot showing full compression. Notice relationship between tie rod and drag link. Also notice how close the drag link is to the oil pan.
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New and old track bar mounts, stabilizer shock to tie rod mount, track bar (shortened Chevy tie rod adjusting tube-center cut out, rod pounded into either end, and welded along slit cuts and rossette welds) and track bar ends (stock track bar rubber bushing ends welded to right and left hand threads of the Chevy tie rod ends.)
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Track bar end.
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New and old track bar frame mounts.
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New and old track bar frame mounts.
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Axle end track bar mount as seen from frame mount end.
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Axle finally installed in the truck-sans axle shafts (notice the Drag link, tie rod, track bar, stabilizer shock, etc).
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Another shot with the drivers wheel on a small rock.
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Flexed shot from the front.
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Flexed shot from the rear showing the lower control arm angles, the high pinion, etc...
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August 2001:

4.88 gears and ARB in '89 Grand Wagoneer rear D44. Notice the gear pattern and the right angle ARB line fitting.
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4.88 gears and ARB. Trying to show the pattern on the other side of the gear teeth.
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4.88 gears and ARB in '89 Grand Wagoneer rear D44. Notice air line routing.
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Wire brush on long extension connected to a drill for cleaning out the insides of the axle tubes.
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Hole drilled for ARB fitting.
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Front axle shaft seal install tool assortment. During actual install, the long pipe would run through the passengers side axle tube.
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Pressing the 4.88 ring gear on ARB carrier for front 44. Notice the two alignment pins.
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Installing ARB's carrier bearing on front 44.
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Using press and bearing separator to install inner pinion bearing on front 44 pinion
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Finished housing painted with Eastwood Corroless.
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Passengers side end showing track bar mount, stabilizer shock mount, sway bar end link mount, coil mount, housing end, high steer arm, and upper control arm mount.
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Drivers side end showing over-the-knuckle cradle, upper control arm mount, coil mount, sway bar end link mount, housing end, high steer arm, and Chev. steering knuckle.
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Another view of drivers side end. Notice the vent and ARB fittings coming out of the housing and the small notch I made in the over-the-knuckle mount for the lines.
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Rear of passengers side. Notice lower control arm mount, lower front shock mount, raised coil mount, sway bar end link mount, and raised track bar mount.
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Drivers side rear.
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Closeup of drivers side shock mount. Notice how I can get a wrench behind the mounting stud and remove it if need be.
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Rear Grand Wagoneer D44 axle with 4.88 gears and an ARB installed. Notice the right angle fitting for the ARB air line.
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Central 4WD 297 U-joint full snap ring kit. It includes 8 new snap rings (which are thinner than stock Spicer c-clips), and 8 shims to make up the difference in thickness. The shims are designed to go inside the caps of Spicer U-joints and tighten it them up. Many folks run the u-joints with snap rings alone and just deal with the small vibration that may develop due to loose u-joints, but this kit tightens up the u-joint to stock specs. It was $25 from Bill Van Tuyl. One problem I ran into is that a needle bearing tipped over when installing the caps and I needed to tap the cap back out. During this tapping, the lone needle bearing mashed the shim in one spot. :( I straightened it out as best I could and went ahead with the install as I had no replacement shim.
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Finished and on the rocks! It is covered with a coat of Eastwood Chassis Black paint. Notice the cover with a 1/4" piece of 2.5" strap welded to the area around the ring gear. It extends down to the edge of the cover and should help provide protection from rocks peeling the cover or mashing the lower cover bolts. Also notice the ARB and vent lines.
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Another shot of the completed front end.
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Trying to show the high pinion of the D44 and it's corresponding high driveshaft. Also just seen is my new Teraflex upper control arms. They are VERY nice.
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©Copyright 2000-2001 Jeff Ayers
All Rights reserved.
Photos: Jeff Ayers
 


[MADXJ]