Front D44 Axle Conversion
by Jeff Ayers
Posted: November 11, 2000
Last Revision: August 3, 2001
Expect long loading-times!
[August 2000]
[November 2000]
[February 2001]
[March 2001]
[April 2001]
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[July 2001]
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This project has been completed. The article below is in its original format where occasional updates were provided during the procedure. Follow the progress over time! | |
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August 11, 2000: Hey all, Just thought I would share my recent junk yard search results. I am looking into building my own High Pinion D44 front end for my '92 Cherokee. My original plan was to use a mid 70's Ford front housing and shorten it to accept mid 80's Grand Wagoneer axle shafts with Chevy knuckles (set up for high clearance steering). This should make the wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface the same as the Grand Wagoneer axle yet have a high pinion center section. I would either use Grand Wagoneer parts from the Knuckle out (6 on 5.5 bolt pattern) or Chevy parts from the knuckle out (also 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern and I think pretty much the same parts as the Grand Wagoneer.) If I wanted a 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern I would use Ford hubs and misc. parts to complete the housing. I am pretty sure using the Ford knuckle out pieces would result in a slightly wider width. So, I did quite a bit of junk yard searching and measureing. These measurements were done with a tape measure and may not be 100% accurate. Here are my results: Grand Wagoneer front axle wheel mount to wheel mount width - 60 3/4" drivers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 21 3/8" passengers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 39 1/2" Stock '92 Cherokee front axle (two composite rotors) width - 60 1/2 drivers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 21 3/4" passengers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 38 13/16" Junk yard Cherokee front axle (non composite rotors) width - 60 1/2" drivers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 21 5/8" passengers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 38 7/8" So, the Grand Wagoneer drivers side is 1/4" to 3/8" shorter than the stock axle, the passengers side is 11/16" to 3/4" longer than the stock axle, and the total Grand Wagoneer axle width is 1/4" wider than the stock axle. Based on this information, a Grand Wagoneer front D44 axle is very close in dimensions to the stock Cherokee RC D30 dimensions. It is slightly wider and the pinion is offset a slight bit further to the drivers side which will actually help clearance between the diff and the exhaust. I also thought I would swap in a Grand Wagoneer D44 rear to match the new front as far as width and bolt pattern. Here are my measurements of the rear axles: Grand Wagoneer rear D44 - no drums width - 58 1/2" drivers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 29 1/4" passengers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 29 1/4" Stock '87 Cherokee rear D44 with Moser custom shafts width - 60 1/4" drivers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 30 3/4" passengers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 29 3/8" Stock junk yard D35 rear axle width - 60 1/4" drivers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 30 7/8" passengers side wheel mounting flange to center of pinion - 29 3/8" So, the Grand Wagoneer rear D44 is 1 3/4" narrower than a stock axle with the pinion being offset 3/4" further towards the drivers side than a stock axle. The Grand Wagoneer rear axle is also about 2" narrower than the Grand Wagoneer front axle when figuring on 1/8" thick brake drums. The spring pads are already set up for spring over and are the same 43 1/2" apart as the stock xj axle. I don't think the pinion offset would cause much of a problem and the different widths between front and rear are apparently not uncommon on vehicles. However, I think the front of my Cherokee's body is already narrower than the rear and the tires already look like they stick out further in the front than the rear. So, I really don't want the rear end to be 2" narrower than the front. I could build the front as outlined and end up being perhaps 1/4" wider than stock at the wheel mounting surfaces. Then, I could use my current stock D44 rear end (real close to the width of the custom front end when you add in the 3/8" or so of the rear disks) and change wheel bolt pattern on the axleshafts by dual drilling the flanges (if there is enough flange diameter) or selling these axle shafts and having Moser make another set drilled for 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern. But, in order to maintain the wheel placement that I want, I would need to use 15 x 8 4.5" backspaced wheels with the stock axles. That same backspacing would then also need to be used with the custom front axle and stock rear axle (with bolt pattern change.) I would like to be able to use stock Grand Wagoneer rims or stock Chevy rims for their cheapness and availability, but I think they are more like 3.5" backspacing which would make the track width too wide. Another possibility I am pursueing is to use the Grand Wagoneer D44 in the rear of my XJ with 3.5" backspaced rims. This would place the tires just about the same as the previous setup using 4.5" backspaced rims. However, what to do to the front to get it 2" narrower so I can use 3.5" backspaced rims (which will also keep the lockouts covered better)? If there are enough splines and enough seal area on the front GW axleshafts, I could build the housing in such a manner as to place the shafts 1" further in the diff. I may have to cut off an inch of the shaft, but I believe that would work. Custom shafts or shafts 1" shorter from somthing else would also work. Lots of thoughts without spending anything so far!! Jeff | |
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November 30, 2000: Update: I have purchased a '75 Ford F150 high
pinion front axle, stripped all components, cut the housing ends off, and
removed the remaining piece of housing tube from the ends. I also came
into possession of a '89 Grand Wagoneer that was burned. The undercarriage
and axles were in excellent condition though. In addition, I have done a
fair amount of junk yard parts picking and have brought home two mid 70's
Chevy steering knuckles, a mid '70's Cherokee short side axle shaft, and
other misc. parts. I cut the Ford axle housing down to fit the Grand
Wagoneer long side axle shaft and the old Cherokee short side axle shaft.
After all the research, my plan is to use the Ford housing, cut it to fit
the '89 Grand long axle shaft and '70-something short axle shaft, use
Chevy steering knuckles, and '89 Grand Wagoneer knuckle out parts with a
set of Mile Marker lockout hubs. This combination with stock Chevy Ralley
rims will produce a track width of around 60.5". The pinion centerline
should end up 1.25" further to the drivers side as compared to stock, but
it hopefully will fit and clear everything. The next phase of this project
is to make the control arm mounts and install them on the new axle. In
this regard, I have begun building a jig based on a stock axle to help
locate the mounts. Like my current modified D30 housing, I am going to
raise the control arm mounting points 2" over stock and the jig will allow
this reposition. Until next time, Jeff | |
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Long side axle |
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Axle yoke modified with band saw to make room for full circlips. |
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From top:
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Long side cut to length with '89 Grand axle in place. |
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Short side cut to length with '7? short axle in place. |
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Long side housing end getting 1" piece of tube cut into many pieces for removal. |
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February, 2001: | |
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Here is my high pinion D44 with all the control arm mounts tacked in position and the ends in the approx. correct spot. The axle shafts are installed as are the spindles and rotor/hub just to test fit it all. The stock Grand Wagoneer tie rod is about 1" too long. |
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Off-angle photo to fit the whole thing in! :) Mounts tacked in position and everything else loosley installed to check fit including the diff/pinion/axle shafts/spindles/hubs/rotors. |
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Another off-angle pic from the other end. |
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March, 2001: | |
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Passenger side showing control arm
mounts, jig, and housing angle. It is set for 11 degrees pinion angle.
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Axle with mounts tacked
in position, all components loosely installed, mock
steering arms, Grand Wagoneer tie rod, and passenger's side coil mounts in approximate
position. [Large image] |
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Axle mocked up with
wooden steering arms, Grand Wagoneer tie rod, and
coil/mount clamped in approximate position. [Large image] |
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Housing in jig. Part of
driver’s side upper control arm mount is sitting on jig. |
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Driver’s side lower
control arm mount made from 3x5x3/16” rectangular
tubing. The mount fits partially onto the pumpkin. Notice how close
the end of the housing is to the control arm bushing. It
is designed to fit a control arm end that uses a stock bushing. The
housing needed to be moved forward ¾” to achieve this. |
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Building and positioning
the control arm mounts. Upper mounts will be made
from 1” pieces of axle tube opened Up a bit to fit stock
bushings. These rings will then be welded To 1x3x1/8” (I couldn’t
find it in 3/16) rectangular tubing. The passenger’s side will
have the tubing welded to the axle tube and be reinforced with
gussets. The driver’s side will be welded to an arch going over the
pumpkin. Lower mounts are cut from 3x5x3/16” rectangular
tubing. |
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Passenger’s side control
arm mounts being built,positioned, and tack-welded in position. [Large image] |
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Axle in jig getting
control arm mounts designed, built, and tack welded in place.
Notice the tab welded to the axle against the pumpkin. This will be used to help mount
the over-the-pumpkin arch, the coil mount,
and part of the lower control arm mount
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Close-up of the tab welded to the axle tube against the pumpkin. The over-the-pumpkin arch, coil mount, and lower control arm mount will be welded to this. |
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Passenger’s side at full
steering lock with mock high clearance arms, coil
mount in approximate location; coil sitting in mount and Grand Wagoneer tie rod. |
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Axle assembly with mock
steering arms at full lock showing clearance between
the tie rod and coil with everything in approximate position. |
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April 2001: | |
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Trial-fitting the axle in place.
This is about 3" below full compression, full left turn. [Large image] |
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Test-fitting axle, about 3" below
full stuff, full left turn. [Large image] |
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Test-fitting the axle in the XJ.
About 3" below full compression. Notice track bar/mount interference with
front of pumpkin and over-the-pumpkin arch. Axle was pushed 3/4" forward
compared to stock. Also shown is mocked-up high steer arm and tie rod
going arm to arm over the arms 6" out from the ball joint center line at
full left turn. [Large image] |
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Standard-rotation DANA 44 4:88 R&P gears. [Large image] |
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[Large image] |
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[Large image] |
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[Large image] |
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[Large image] |
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Special "Parts Mike" arms made
long enough to fit two tie rod ends, yet not drilled/tapered for them.
These arms are surrounded by mounting studs/nuts/split tapered washers.
[Large image] |
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"Parts Mike" arms getting the poor man's milling
procedure to angle the ends. I did this by cutting a sliver off with a
portable band saw and then using a grinder to smooth the cut. [Large image] |
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May 2001: | |
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Axle with all welds done, coil mounts loosley in
place. [Large image] |
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Passenger side showing housing end weld, partially
finished coil mount, and upper control arm mount. [Large image] |
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Axle --driver's side, showing housing end weld, partially finished coil
mount, over-the-pumpkin arch, and upper control arm mount. |
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Driver's side from above. Notice coil mount/shock mount/lower control
arm mount/housing end weld. |
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Passenger's side end from above. Notice coil mount/shock mount/upper
and lower control arm mounts/space for track bar mount. |
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Passenger's side. |
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Passenger's side knuckle with modified "Parts Mike" steering arm,
mid-'80s Chevy drag link end going in from the top, and early chevy 4WD
hooked tie rod end going in from the bottom. Also shown is the driver's
side steering arm and tie rod end. |
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Another view of the passenger's side knuckle, steering arms, and tie
rod ends. |
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Close-up of driver's side steering arm. I used a portable band saw and
angle grinder to "mill" the tie rod attachment area at an angle. This
allows the tie rod ends to be closer to 90 degrees fromt the rod with the
arm mounted on the knuckle. |
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July 2001: | |
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Picture showing how close the tie
rod and drag link get during full compression. This is during the testing
phase hence the make shift left tie rod end. I am using a TJ pitman arm,
mid 80's Chev truck tie rod ends, and a shortened Chev tie rod adjusting
tube for the drag link. The tie rod uses earlier Chev tie rod ends that
are hooked and have a 3/4-16 right and left hand thread. The tie
rod is a piece of DOM threaded to 3/4-16. [ Large image] |
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Front shot showing full compression. Notice relationship between tie
rod and drag link. Also notice how close the drag link is to the oil
pan. [ Large image] |
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New and old track bar mounts, stabilizer shock to tie rod mount, track
bar (shortened Chevy tie rod adjusting tube-center cut out, rod pounded
into either end, and welded along slit cuts and rossette welds) and
track bar ends (stock track bar rubber bushing ends welded to right and
left hand threads of the Chevy tie rod ends.) [ Large image] |
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Track bar end. [ Large image] |
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New and old track bar frame mounts. [ Large image] |
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New and old track bar frame mounts. [ Large image] |
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Axle end track bar mount as seen from frame mount end. [ Large image] |
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Axle finally installed in the truck-sans axle shafts (notice the Drag
link, tie rod, track bar, stabilizer shock, etc). [ Large image] |
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Another shot with the drivers wheel on a small rock. [ Large image] |
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Flexed shot from the front. [ Large image] |
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Flexed shot from the rear showing the lower control arm angles, the
high pinion, etc... [ Large image] |
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August 2001: | |
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4.88 gears and ARB in '89 Grand Wagoneer rear D44. Notice the gear
pattern and the right angle ARB line fitting. [ Large image] |
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4.88 gears and ARB. Trying to show the pattern on the other side of
the gear teeth. [ Large image] |
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4.88 gears and ARB in '89 Grand Wagoneer rear D44. Notice air line
routing. [ Large image] |
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Wire brush on long extension connected to a drill for cleaning out the
insides of the axle tubes. |
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Hole drilled for ARB fitting. [ Large image] |
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Front axle shaft seal install tool assortment. During actual install,
the long pipe would run through the passengers side axle tube. |
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Pressing the 4.88 ring gear on ARB carrier for front 44. Notice the
two alignment pins. |
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Installing ARB's carrier bearing on front 44. [ Large image] |
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Using press and bearing separator to install inner pinion bearing on
front 44 pinion |
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Finished housing painted with Eastwood Corroless. [ Large image] |
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Passengers side end showing track bar mount, stabilizer shock mount,
sway bar end link mount, coil mount, housing end, high steer arm, and
upper control arm mount. [ Large image] |
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Drivers side end showing over-the-knuckle cradle, upper control arm
mount, coil mount, sway bar end link mount, housing end, high steer arm,
and Chev. steering knuckle.
[ Large image] |
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Another view of drivers side end. Notice the vent and ARB fittings
coming out of the housing and the small notch I made in the
over-the-knuckle mount for the lines. [ Large image] |
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Rear of passengers side. Notice lower control arm mount, lower front
shock mount, raised coil mount, sway bar end link mount, and raised
track bar mount. [ Large image] |
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Drivers side rear. [ Large image] |
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Closeup of drivers side shock mount. Notice how I can get a wrench
behind the mounting stud and remove it if need be. [ Large image] |
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Rear Grand Wagoneer D44 axle with 4.88 gears and an ARB installed.
Notice the right angle fitting for the ARB air line. |
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Central 4WD 297 U-joint full snap ring kit. It includes 8 new snap
rings (which are thinner than stock Spicer c-clips), and 8 shims to make
up the difference in thickness. The shims are designed to go inside the
caps of Spicer U-joints and tighten it them up. Many folks run the
u-joints with snap rings alone and just deal with the small vibration
that may develop due to loose u-joints, but this kit tightens up the
u-joint to stock specs. It was $25 from Bill Van Tuyl. One problem I
ran into is that a needle bearing tipped over when installing the caps
and I needed to tap the cap back out. During this tapping, the lone
needle bearing mashed the shim in one spot. :( I straightened it out as
best I could and went ahead with the install as I had no replacement
shim. [ Large image] |
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Finished and on the rocks! It is covered with a coat of Eastwood
Chassis Black paint. Notice the cover with a 1/4" piece of 2.5" strap
welded to the area around the ring gear. It extends down to the edge of
the cover and should help provide protection from rocks peeling the
cover or mashing the lower cover bolts. Also notice the ARB and vent
lines. [ Large image] |
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Another shot of the completed front end. [ Large image] |
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Trying to show the high pinion of the D44 and it's corresponding high
driveshaft. Also just seen is my new Teraflex upper control arms. They
are VERY nice. [ Large image] |
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All Rights reserved. Photos: Jeff Ayers | |